"A man paints with his brains and not with his hands." - Michelangelo
I missed the introduction to trim because I was late getting to class. I had scheduled a canoe ride at Aiken State Park for Saturday, which conflicted with the Lowe's class. I thought I knew how to get to the park, but it turns out I was wrong. By the time I realized I was going the wrong way, the canoes had already shoved off. I turned out and drove to Lowe's instead.
What can be said about painting? It's easy, but it's easy to get wrong too if you forget a few steps. First, after the wall has been sanded smooth where joint compound and tape has been applied, wipe down the wall with either a dry paintbrush or damp cloth. If you don't, your paint finish won't be smooth at all because all that dust will be trapped beneath the layers of paint.
Second, prime first. This we did not do to save ourselves a step in the class. But you always, always want to prime first. The joint compound and tape could easily be seen through our first coat of paint, which, as Robin said, is why so many customers begrudgingly stomp back into Lowe's after buying only a can of paint and not primer.
Third (and I picked up on this in the last class) always wash new rollers before you paint with them. If you don't, the roller material (I don't know if it's fur or what) will stick to your wall with the paint.
Our wall Saturday was this putrid pink color, what Robin affectionately called Pepto-Bismol. I can handle pink, but only in small doses. This was a large dose.
After using painter's tape to protest our crisp, white trim, we were given a roller, a paintbrush and two painting tools that help with your paint line along trim then in corners. The one I picked up had two rollers on the bottom and after dipping it in the paint you drag it straight along the trim line. It gave nice coverage. I liked it.
That was our last training class. The next time I see these ladies who have become part of my Saturday routine, it will be at the job site when we break ground on the house.
Keep checking this blog for my write-up of the Habitat for Humanity house groundbreaking.
Monday, October 22, 2007
Sunday, October 14, 2007
Fifth Saturday - Insulation and sheet rock
I'm not scratching. That's a good thing. A very good thing.
The fifth Women Build class at Lowe's covered insulation and sheet rock. We were advised by e-mail to wear a long-sleeved T-shirt to class because insulation is made of fiberglass and, if it comes in contact with skin, can cause some serious itch-age.
Everyone was glad for the suggestion not only because of the irritating material we were dealing with and because it was COLD Saturday morning! We were also told to dust baby powder on our skin to help shield it. I didn't do that. I'm not even a fan of sunscreen ... which is why I'll probably look 60 when I'm 40.
The one, brief period I touched the insulation (I held a tape measurer over it) I pulled the sleeve of my shirt over my fingers. It worked.
Gary rolled out the bale of insulation and instructed us to put it up, which was extremely easy. You measure it to fit, cut it with a boxer cutter and pat it in. Then we folded over the paper flaps on either side and using a staple gun, secured the insulation to the studs.
But there is one very important detail you can't miss: the paper side of insulation faces the interior of the house. Otherwise, insulation is worthless. Under a microscope, Gary said, insulation looks like a bunch of tiny cups threaded together. The cups trap and hold air, which helps warm and cool a house.
Sheet rock was nearly as simple. For our small wall, we cut two rectangles: one for the top of the wall and one for the bottom. Sheet rock is always "laid down;" never "stood up." Let me rephrase that. Sheet rock SHOULD always be laid down. Sometimes it isn't. The reason sheet rock is laid horizontally along a wall is so joints always meet on a stud. If it's laid vertically, that won't always happen and later on, the wall or ceiling could buckle.
The fifth Women Build class at Lowe's covered insulation and sheet rock. We were advised by e-mail to wear a long-sleeved T-shirt to class because insulation is made of fiberglass and, if it comes in contact with skin, can cause some serious itch-age.
Everyone was glad for the suggestion not only because of the irritating material we were dealing with and because it was COLD Saturday morning! We were also told to dust baby powder on our skin to help shield it. I didn't do that. I'm not even a fan of sunscreen ... which is why I'll probably look 60 when I'm 40.
The one, brief period I touched the insulation (I held a tape measurer over it) I pulled the sleeve of my shirt over my fingers. It worked.
Gary rolled out the bale of insulation and instructed us to put it up, which was extremely easy. You measure it to fit, cut it with a boxer cutter and pat it in. Then we folded over the paper flaps on either side and using a staple gun, secured the insulation to the studs.
But there is one very important detail you can't miss: the paper side of insulation faces the interior of the house. Otherwise, insulation is worthless. Under a microscope, Gary said, insulation looks like a bunch of tiny cups threaded together. The cups trap and hold air, which helps warm and cool a house.
Sheet rock was nearly as simple. For our small wall, we cut two rectangles: one for the top of the wall and one for the bottom. Sheet rock is always "laid down;" never "stood up." Let me rephrase that. Sheet rock SHOULD always be laid down. Sometimes it isn't. The reason sheet rock is laid horizontally along a wall is so joints always meet on a stud. If it's laid vertically, that won't always happen and later on, the wall or ceiling could buckle.
When nailing in sheet rock, you always want to "dimple" the nail. This means driving it in far enough to make a dent. When joint compound mud is later wiped over it, the area will be smooth as the mud will fill the indentation.
Please join us Monday, Oct. 15 at O'Charley's from 6-9 p.m. on Whiskey Road for Celebrity Waiter Night benefitting Habitat's Women Build. Meals are $25, the cost of which will be split between O'Charley's and Habitat. But 100% of your tips will go to Habitat. Be sure to look for me there.
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